A little advance planning can make your stay in the Eternal City much easier since you’ll be assured of avoiding long lines that are common at the most popular sites. Here are the sites we recommend you book well in advance of your Rome stay.

Colosseum
When you approach the Colosseum, you may find a line that goes on for hours. There are several solutions:

• Book a tour and get all the insight of a professional guide, and also get access to places not open to the general public such as the underground areas.
• If you buy the Roma Pass, you can go around the line to a separate entrance and walk in. The pass gives you free entrance to 1 or 2 museums (the Coliseum counts as one of them) as well as unlimited transport for several days. The Coliseum is located right by a subway station, handy.

Galleria Borghese Museum – this jewel of a museum is also small, so a visit can be planned for less than two hours. Make your reservation well in advance. If you wait until you get to Rome chances are it will already be sold out.

• Book online on the somewhat awkward site or, easier with some guided options on this site.
• If you buy the Roma Pass, then telephone for the reservations for the Borghese Gallery and Palazzo Valentini. See the FAQ on the RomaPass site for how to book those museums.
• See our nice blog article on some highlights.

Domus Romane of Palazzo Valentini – Really special, see our Blog. You need to go on the tour and there are limited English language times.

• Book online on their rather challenging site or this easier booking service.
• If you buy the Roma Pass, then telephone for the reservations for the Borghese Gallery and Palazzo Valentini. See the FAQ on the RomaPass site for how to book those museums.

Domus Aurea – Fascinating “Golden House” of Nero filled with stories of ancient Rome as well as the discovery of this lost monument to Rome’s most hated emperor. Opening dates and times are limited.

• Read about it then book online.

Vatican Museums & St. Peter’s Basilica – Almost always a long line for the Vatican Museums. This is a very large museum that also includes the Sistine Chapel. (If you are traveling with younger children, we suggest saving this until they are older, it can be too much.) A guide can help you navigate so you can take in highlights and if you chose a private guide or the right tour, even children can enjoy. A suggestion is to combine a guided, skip the line tour with a visit to St. Peter’s Basilica that is a separate location and unless you are on a tour, about a 15 minute walk apart. Lines for St. Peter’s aren’t always very long and it is lovely to just “be” in that vast holy space, but if you go with a guide, you’ll see and learn things that will astound you.  And then, when the tour is over, you can wander and meditate in the vastness of the largest church in the world.

Many of the rich art of Italy can be found in churches that often have free entrance. We recommend a small donation to support their generosity and, of course, respectful silence.

A note about the RomaPass: We have done the math for ourselves and others and find that it is usually a break-even investment.

Queue to the Colosseum ticket office – credits to Bob Hall via Flickr (CC BY-SA 2.0)

Sistine Chapel photo from Voyages Lambert.

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Traveling by train in Italy can be an especially nice experience if you give yourself time to enjoy the ride. Here are some of our tried-and-true tips to help you get the most out of your journey:

1. Get to the station early and figure out where the platform information will be posted. The platforms are assigned just minutes before the train pulls into the station. Use the train number because often your destination may not be the ultimate destination posted on the boards.
2. Enjoy our favorite pre-train experience which is to find a café in the station and relax for 20 minutes or so, enjoying a cappuccino and pastry, watching the world go by. The main stations have several cafes, find the ones that offer table seating. Rome Termini station has really amped up its café and restaurants, there are many to choose from offering everything from a simple coffee to pasta made-to-order. The food and beverages are fresh and well prepared. Typically you pay first at the cash register — Cassa —  for your order and then bring your receipt to the counter to place your order with a small coin tip for the barista
3. If your train journey is several hours long you can buy a sandwich (panino) to go since food service on the trains is very limited.
4. Restrooms in the large train stations charge €1 for admission to the toilets. You pay by coin at a turnstile at the restroom entrance. Well worth the price for a clean, safe restroom in the large and crowded stations.

Now sit back, relax and enjoy the ride!

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Our guests often ask for advice on which sites to reserve in advance to avoid waiting in long lines. We know those lines so well. I remember a special excursion to Florence years ago with my young son, having driven for 2 hours from our countryside vacation rental. He really wanted to see Michelangelo’s Bound Prisoners in the Accademia (even more than the prospect of seeing the original David that is also there). We arrived at the Accademia that hot July day to find a line at least an hour-and-a-half long in full sun. As we wilted, my son’s impatience and frustration grew and we gave up, learning our lesson that for some sites a little advance planning is well worth it.

Here are our tips for which Florence sites you absolutely should buy tickets for well in advance, or face the prospect of waiting in line, even during off-season. Before leaving for Italy be sure to print your ticket vouchers and bring them with you.

Uffizi Gallery (one of the most important museums in the world with the greatest collection of Renaissance art and more) – always book ahead. Consider a guide who can help you navigate and understand what you are seeing. Or rent headsets for a self-guided tour.

• Prebook tickets and tours here.
• Get the special perspective of a scholar here.

Accademia (Michelangelo’s David and the Bound Prisoners as well as a nice small museum) – besides long lines in peak times, the open times are also limited, so another reason to book ahead.

• Prebook tickets and tours here.
• Get the special perspective of a scholar here.

Also consider the Firenze Card. You have to do the math to see if it is worth your while versus buying individual tickets. It is valid for just 3 days, so valuable if you are going to see a lot of tourist sites in quick order.

Photo thanks to Lynn with Creative Commons License.

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Fantasy and reality combine to create a world beyond our dreams at Villa d’Este in Tivoli, just outside of Rome. Cascading fountains draw you inside, whispering their secrets as you pass and cypress trees stand tall, guarding the estate and its terraced gardens. Looking up to the main house, you wonder if Juliette will come to the window looking for Romeo as a renaissance ball spills into the garden below.

Villa d’Este is a great day trip for anyone looking to leave the hustle and bustle of Rome for a few hours. Hop on the urban train line FL2 from Tiburtina to arrive in Tivoli about 45 minutes later. Walk from the station to Villa d’Este to get a feel for the village with its winding cobblestoned streets and classic old town.

The villa itself is certainly worth a look, too, its frescoed ceilings are beautifully maintained. However once you enter the gardens, the real fun begins.

It is easy to forget that these palatial grounds were constructed in the late 16th century and rely mostly on gravity to create the impressive fountains. The central Fontana del Bicchierone, designed by Bernini, first appears to be a raw piece of rock but upon further inspection one realizes that is the brilliance behind the design. Each terrace of the garden will surprise you with its ingenuity, don’t be afraid to spend all afternoon figuring out which water feature is your favorite!

As you leave the villa, be sure to stop for a gelato at Il Gelato de Pinocchio, a perennial favorite and explore the shops of the old town. The town of Tivoli is also host to a few other famous villas that are worth discovering if you have the time, Villa Adriana built for Emperor Hadrian and Villa Gregoriana for Pope Gregory XVI. A great photo stop is the Little Waterfalls under the Ponte Gregoriano which provides the perfect background to capture your time in Tivoli!

Photos by Dark Rome Tours & Walks, Neo_II, majolie46, Joe Anderson and Roger W. Under Creative Commons.

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Music is woven through the life and history of Venice. A concert or an opera is a wonderful way to deepen your enjoyment of this lovely city.

Enjoy fine music in unique and intimate settings at Musica a Palazzo. You can choose your opera, based on the day of the week and then move from room to room for different parts of the performance in a fascinating noble palace.

With the world-class singers and musicians performing as you all move through the beautiful salons, you feel like you are part of the story. The two hours fly by.

Have an early dinner in nearby Campo Santo Stefano before strolling to Palazzo Barbarigo Minotto for your Musica a Palazzo.

A unique aspect of this fine program is that you buy an annual subscription for €75 for unlimited concerts. Of course, as a tourist, you may just go once but think of the bargain if you manage to go twice!

Registration and advance reservations are required and can be done by clicking here

Current performances include La Traviata, Rigoletto, the Barber of Seville and Love Duets.

Of course, we invite you to stay in our lovely apartments in Venice:

Serenata with its terrace and views of the canals and San Marco is an 11 minute walk to Musica.

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Florence is conveniently located in central Tuscany, a city known for millennia as the intersection of great art, history, and food.  The nearby towns and cities, rich with culture and tradition, are great opportunities for easy day trips while staying in Florence. Here are some of our favorites chosen by our Italy travel experts.

FIESOLE

In the hills overlooking Florence, is a pleasant and peaceful retreat from the crowds where you enjoy a stunning panorama of Florence and its surrounding hills. Easy to reach in 35 minutes by city bus #7 from Piazza San Marco (corner of Via la Pira).

Roman & Etruscan Ruins in Fiesole

Much older than Florence, Fiesole is the first human settlement in the area. Founded by the Etruscans in the 9th century BC, it offers visitors a vast archaeological site that contains Etruscan and Roman remains. The peaceful Roman amphitheater is surrounded by fascinating reminders of ancient times as well as a fascinating small museum. The beautiful Villa Medici, one of the residences owned by the rulers of Renaissance Florence, sits in the peaceful countryside.

MONTELUPO

A small village about 20 kilometers from Florence. Easy to reach in 30 minutes by train.

Sunflower Plate from Montelupo

This is a bit of a hidden treasure; most tourists have never heard of it, but it was an important center for the production of maiolica (hand-painted glazed ceramics) during the Middle Ages and Renaissance. It continues to produce beautiful, colorful ceramics. Founded in the 13th century by the Florentines on their route to Pisa, Montelupo boasts medieval city walls and an interesting Museum of Ceramics. In the historical center, discover many fine ceramic stores and artisan workshops making their signature handmade pottery.

Every June Montelupo hosts the Festa Internazionale della Ceramica, International Festival of Ceramics, making this a super time to visit the town, but year-round a trip here will give you a sense of small-town Tuscany.

LUCCA

Another not-to-be-missed destination while in Tuscany, Lucca is just a little over an hour away by bus or train.

Roman Coliseum shapes Lucca’s Piazza

Famous for its spectacular 16th century walls that surround the entire city, where visitors and locals stroll and ride bicycles (rentals available). Exploring Lucca opens up the layers of Italian history and art. To celebrate its native son, be sure to listen to the music of the composer Giacomo Puccini while planning and visiting, including the haunting arias of Tosca.

CHIANTI REGION

An area renowned for its Chianti wine and also the idyllic landscape characterized by vineyards, olive trees and hilltops topped with fortified villages. The best way to visit the area is by car. You can rent a car for the day, but if you want to visit some of the wineries and enjoy a bit of wine-tasking, we suggest hiring a driver!

World Famous Chianina Beef

There are many nice towns to visit: Greve, considered the gates of Chianti; Montefioralle with its ancient medieval castle; and Panzano famous for the “bistecca alla fiorentina” (Florentine beef steak from the prized and ancient breed of Chianina cattle) all presenting wonderful panoramas of this beautiful region.

SAN GIMIGNANO

Declared by UNESCO a World Architectural Heritage site, San Gimignano is only 60 kilometers from Florence. It is reachable by bus, but for your convenience we suggest to rent a car or hire a driver.
This wonderful medieval town is famous for its extraordinary towers, which remind us of its golden age when all the gentry of the town built towers to defend themselves against their next door neighbors! Golden, must have been awful! There were hundreds of them! Although they dominate the town, few towers remain but history haunts the charming winding streets.

Photo by M Lazzaroni (CC)

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November is our favorite month to take advantage of low season rates and fewer crowds. We always go in November, have done for 10 years, and the first part of the month has mild, October-like weather that can last into the latter half of the month.

Mike from ItalyPerfect says “The best time to tour Italy is in November, hands down, the mild weather makes even the most ambitious itinerary possible. And goodness knows our staff has the most ambitious itineraries I’ve ever seen.”

The weather is great for walking about, warm in the day, fresh at night. Those open places like the Roman Forum and Pompeii where you wilt in the summer sun, are great outings. You might get some rain but usually it is a fast moving shower. If the forecast says rain, there are so many museums and churches to visit, you won’t be bereft of great activities. Of course we can’t guarantee the weather, but early-to-mid November is typically pleasant.

Pat says “A long-time favorite of cognoscenti is October when the weather cools off a bit. But now everyone seems to know about October so that month tends to be quite busy so we go in November.”

Air fares tend to be lower, vacation rentals have low-season prices and, best of all, the harvest is in! The peppery-tasting new olive oil is to be savored, mushrooms, fresh porcini and truffles. Special autumn dishes are on every menu: Pumpkin Ravioli, Pasta with Ragu made from wild boar meat, Porcini Risotto, Pasta al Tartufo (truffles) and the heart-warming aroma of chestnuts roasting on an open fire, sold by street vendors in paper cones to nibble as you stroll along.

Lisa says “Chianti wine has had a rebirth in popularity in recent years. We really enjoy fall wine tasting in Tuscany’s Chianti region, especially the Chianti Nuovo, newly pressed wine much-promoted by local restaurants, similar to France’s rush for Beaujolais Nouveau during the first weeks in November.”

Photos by Matthew Mendoza (CC) and Francesco Sgroi (CC)

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Are you thinking of cruising around in your rental car, pulling up to the doorstep of your vacation rental in the center of Rome or Florence, unloading your bags and then chancing upon a handy parking garage or, better yet, street parking? Think again…

Driving in Italy takes some careful planning if your route takes you through a major city. Before you book that rental car, heed this advice because it is really, and we mean really, daunting to avoid the infamous ZTL, the limited traffic zones which throttle traffic in the city centers.

Watch For the Signs With a Red Circle

To reduce air and noise pollution in city centers, Italy has established “Restricted Traffic Zones” (Zona Traffico Limitato – ZTL) with limitations on driving during certain days and hours. The nice thing about the limited traffic zones is that many city streets are now lovely pedestrian zones, where you can stroll and linger without being overwhelmed by traffic zipping past, honking horns and exhaust fumes. Vehicle access to these zones is normally limited to local residents, public transport, emergency services and specific permit holders. The entry points are normally clearly indicated by signs and are controlled by cameras that automatically read the registration numbers of all entering vehicles; the numbers are then checked against a list of authorized vehicles and, if no match is found, the offending driver is issued a fine of about €100 or more, which will then be delivered by mail or added to your rental car costs.

This can catch tourists by surprise because the boundaries of the ZTLs generally include most of the sites and monuments that you would like to visit.

Decoding ZTL Signs

Here’s a primer to better understand the signs. These photos of signs shows the hours of the days of the week when access to this particular sector is restricted. The “car” symbol indicates the restrictions that apply to private vehicles. The “man with the hand cart” icon refers to the restrictions that are enforced to commercial vehicles delivering goods to the businesses inside the ZTL sector. The “crossed hammers” signify working days (usually Monday to Saturday). Should restrictions be applied on Sundays and/or festivities, a Latin cross symbol is used.

In some zones, the restricted access time can be variable. In such instances, the ZTL sign is complemented by an electronic board signaling whether the ZTL restrictions are in effect/active (“ZTL ATTIVA”).

If you study the ZTL signs, zones and schedules for locations of interest, you may be able to find times of day when you can freely drive through the areas. Each city posts their zones and schedules online. But general advice to short-term tourists is to either drop your rental car or to park it. It’s simply not worth the hassle, delays and fines to try to drive in the ZTL zones.

If you are going to stay within a ZTL, plan ahead to turn in a rental car or to park it. You need a garage that is either outside the ZTL or that can register you for temporary access. If you are staying at a hotel and want to drive to it before parking your car, contact the hotel directly to see if they can get you temporary access and also ask them to copy you on their request in case of a future dispute. If you are staying in an Italy Perfect vacation rental, please contact us and we will give you advice for your situation. We can tell you the closest rental car drop point or garage.

The ZTL in Rome

Much of central Rome is affected by traffic limitations.

In addition to the traffic restrictions defined by the ZTL, some areas of central Rome are pedestrianized. While strolling in the evidently pedestrian zones, you still need to keep your wits about you because vehicles still zip through either by special permission or by ignoring the law.

The ZTL in Florence

With only about one ninth of the inhabitants of Rome, beautiful Florence is a much smaller city, but equally packed with artistic and historical treasures, especially, as you would expect, in its ZTL. The good news is that, the city being so much smaller, the ZTL is too, and can mostly be explored on foot.

If you are coming to Florence just for the day or are staying outside the ZTL, you can park at the Santa Maria Novella train station underground car park or at the San Lorenzo car park at the central market and then walk from there.

No ZTL restrictions in Venice

Venice is an exceptional city, also in the sense that it is the exception; there is no ZTL in the city: there just is no road traffic at all.

Italy Perfect hopes you find this information helpful. With a bit of advance planning you can have a safe and smooth trip!

Feature photo by Kim (CC)

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The caffeine landscape in Italy is rich with ritual and tradition. The espresso is as much a staple as pizza and wine. Italy is very traditional in its choice of coffees; popular American and British brands have never really made their mark here. So the Starbucks vocabulary such as latte and venti, while they are Italian words, don’t mean the same thing in an authentic Italian cafè. And don’t expect to come across your usual choice of Starbucks, Caffè Nero, Peet’s or Tim Horton’s.

First of all let’s get our terms straight: There’s the cafè and then there’s caffè. If you ask an Italian barista for a caffè, you will be served an espresso, while a cafè is the place where you go to drink coffee, however most Italians refer to a cafè as a bar as in ‘snack bar’. These family owned bars are bustling hot-spots for the pre-work crowd. The baristas are centers of their neighborhood community, they brighten up the morning with a tiny cup of espresso served with a smile; and they keep up-to-date on local gossip!

If one shot of caffeine is not enough to get you moving, you can always ask for a caffè doppio, which is two espressos served together in a larger cup and guaranteed to wake you up and keep you buzzing!

The ubiquitous cappuccino is one of the most popular coffee styles in the world; it is an espresso infused in a tea-sized cup with hot frothy milk. The name cappuccino, by the way, is derived from the Capuchin Friars, whose habit is brown and white like the beverage with an alternative explanation that the cup with its ring of foam looks like the monk’s tonsure (shaved top of head). If you want equal parts of coffee to milk, ask for a cappuccino chiaro (light colored cappuccino).

The locals, by the way, probably won’t be ordering either type after 10am. Italians are very protective of their health, and the thought of having to digest coffee with milk after morning time can send them into spasms of worry. You can get away with sipping a caffè macchiato (literally meaning stained, as you stain it with a drop of milk); akin to a mini caffè latte.

Italians do not take their coffee to-go in a big paper cup, but drink it rather quickly standing at the bar. The price is higher if you take it to a table or have it served there. That said, we have lately seen a few tourists carrying their big paper cups of coffee on the streets of Italy. Some smart bar owners have figured out how to appeal to the Starbucks-addicted!

You will find Italian coffee served in all sorts of varieties and all sorts of proportions besides the aforementioned beverages. Here are some of the most popular styles of Italian coffee:

• Caffè ristretto, which has the same amount of coffee but brewed with less water, and the caffè lungo, a slightly more diluted espresso still served in a small cup
• Caffè corretto (literally, coffee that has been corrected with a shot of alcoholic beverage, normally sambuca or grappa), caffè Borghetti, an espresso served with a splash of Borghetti liquor (popular with soccer players and consumed at break time),
• Caffè con schiuma (froth), prepared by either lightly beating it or blowing steam through it, caffè schiumato with its splotch of frothy milk, the caffè con panna, an espresso with a dollop of whipped cream
• Caffè freddo, an iced coffee normally served in the summer
• Gran caffè speciale, a delicious creamy double espresso only served at one of Italy’s coffee holy places, Rome’s Sant’Eustachio coffee bar
• Caffè latte, usually just called a white coffee in England and traditionally a home-made Italian breakfast drink of coffee with heated milk added to it
• Caffè Americano is the Italian take on American style coffee.
• Caffè Hag, which has become synonymous with all decaffeinated coffee (Hag is a brand of decaf). Either ask for a caffè Hag or a deca, the result will be the same.
• Two new coffees snaking their way into Italian life; the mocaccino, a mixture of coffee and hot chocolate, and the caffè al Ginseng, said to enhance virility.
• And, saving the best for last, the granita di caffè con panna. This yummy coffee slushy is served with whipped cream or even without.

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Romans love many things, and shopping is high on their list. To get a taste of bargain hunting, Italian style, why not visit a flea market or two? Here we’ve compiled a list of five interesting flea markets within this glorious city.

One of the best known of the markets is the Porta Portese Sunday morning market, situated in Trastevere. The market is open until 1pm and you will be hard pressed to get around it all – it is absolutely enormous! If you’re looking for a bargain, perhaps a handbag or stylish footwear, you’ve reached the right place, but remember, “If it looks too good to be true, it probably is”,  there are lots of fake designer goods. Alternatively there is a plethora of gorgeous vintage items which you’ll find at the intersection of via Ippolito Nievo/via Ergisto Bezzi/Largo Francesco Anziani.

Next on the list is the Borgo Parioli market, situated between Via Tirso 14 and Via Metauro 21, within one of Rome’s most exclusive residential areas. There is a good chance you’ll come across some really classy and classic bargains – perhaps some vintage jewelry or silverware if you’re lucky. This is a weekend market, open on the first three weekends of the month, from 10am to 8pm.

If clothes are your ‘thing’, a visit to the morning flea market of Via Sannio in the Porta San Giovanni area, should put a smile on your face. Here, you’ll find a very good variety of new and vintage clothes as well as some truly gorgeous leather jackets and shoes. This market is open Monday through Saturday from 8am until 1pm.

For all those who enjoy walking amongst unusual and interesting artifacts, the La Soffitta Sotto I Portici market, set up under the impressive Piazza Augusto Imperatore portico and just off the popular Via Del Corso, takes place every first, third, fourth and (when there is one) fifth Sunday of the month, with the exception of the month of August. On display are a vast array of collectibles of books, stamps, coins, antiques etc. This Rome flea market has become a reference point for Roman collectors.

Saving one of the best markets for last, is the Mercato delle Stampe (meaning the Prints Market) in Piazza Borghese. For lovers of all things printed, this is the market for you. Within it, you’ll be able to browse through books, including genuine, second hand and antiquarian ones, old prints, and back issues of specialist magazines. There is usually a plentiful variety of illustrated art books to spend time with. Open from Monday through Sunday from 7am to 1pm.

There are just a few things to bear in mind when visiting any market. First of all, it’s always a good idea to start early if you want to find the best bargains. Secondly, don’t carry valuables with you; the flea markets are, after all, a busy environment and things can easily get lost or ‘be relieved’ from you (in short, watch out for pickpockets!). Third, remember to barter! Italians are in their element when put to the test and you’ll have lots of fun when attempting to get the best price. Make sure you wear comfortable shoes! You could be walking long distances and, on cobble-stoned streets, you won’t want the additional distraction of sore feet! Remember not to get too carried away shopping; as tempted as you may be, don’t buy more than you can carry home in your luggage. And last but not least, there is a good opportunity to sample some of Italy’s local delicacies while you stroll through the markets. From savory “lupini” beans to (in season) warm “caldarroste” (roast chestnuts), you’ll really feel part of the ‘bella Italia’ for the day!

Photos by A. Kotok, A. Malatesta and D. Restivo under Creative Commons

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